Fashion History, Theory and Practice at the University of the Arts London
Submitting InstitutionUniversity of the Arts London
Unit of AssessmentArt and Design: History, Practice and Theory
Summary Impact TypeCultural
Research Subject Area(s)
Studies In Creative Arts and Writing: Film, Television and Digital Media
Language, Communication and Culture: Cultural Studies
History and Archaeology: Historical Studies
Summary of the impact
This case study covers the work of five researchers at University of the
Arts London (UAL), who have played a role in establishing a field of
academically rigorous fashion research with a new relevance for industry
and society. This has been achieved through innovative curatorial
practices, publications, collaboration with practitioners, and interaction
with broadcast, print and new media. The work of this group of academics
has influenced the way fashion is presented and communicated within the
museum, gallery and publishing sector, and in the fashion industry itself,
both nationally and internationally.
Collaborative and individual research at UAL into the histories, theories
and practices of fashion, by Professors Judith Clark, Caroline Evans, and
Amy de la Haye, Alistair O'Neill (Reader) and Marketa Uhlirová (Senior
Research Fellow), has resulted in an extension of the audience for fashion
theory and history beyond the academic community. In the last two decades,
the academic study of fashion gained a new, mainstream prominence by
foregrounding the subject's social, political and cultural significance.
Research in this area has been a long-standing specialism of UAL and past
employees such as Dr Rebecca Arnold (Courtauld Institute of Art), Andrew
Bolton (Metropolitan Museum of Art), Professor Christopher Breward
(Edinburgh University), Dr Becky Conekin (Yale), Dr Joanne Entwistle
(King's College London), and Visiting Professor Elizabeth Wilson have also
played a vital part in the re-conceptualising of fashion history. UAL's
current approach to fashion history and theory is informed by the art
school context, in particular its world-renowned teaching in fashion at
Central Saint Martins and London College of Fashion and by maintaining a
distinctive commitment to the interface of practice and theory. The key
insights that underpin impact are: the placing of fashion theory, history
and practice within a wider social and industry context, and the
development of innovative curation and exhibition making practice that
straddles the boundaries of theory and practice.
The AHRB funded Fashion and Modernity project (2001-2004) led by
Caroline Evans (PI), brought together historians, theoreticians, curators
and practitioners from across UAL and beyond (including Clark, O'Neill,
Uhlirová, as well as Arnold, Bolton, Breward, Conekin, and Wilson) to
explore the history, theory and practice of fashion and its relevance to
the idea of `being modern' through the integration of practice-based work
alongside historical and theoretical studies. One outcome of the project,
Evans's book Fashion at the Edge: Spectacle, Modernity and Deathliness
(2003), provided a blueprint for rethinking fashion history methodology
and challenged the linearity of older paradigms. It was innovative in
crediting the full range of creative practitioners who produce
contemporary fashion and imagery. Clark's 2004/2005 exhibition Malign
Muses/Spectres (an outcome of Fashion and Modernity)
extended this idea by initiating dialogues with four practitioners in
adjacent disciplines, including Evans as the theorist and historian.
Clark's exhibition offered a new model for the fashion exhibition, via the
conceptual framework of the installation, the choice of objects, and the
design of the individual `sets'. By taking arguments made in Evans's Fashion
at the Edge and developing them in visual and three-dimensional
form, the exhibition demonstrated how critical curation and theory could
intersect in a public forum. For Valerie Steele `Malign Muses/Spectres
was "paradigm breaking": She [Judith Clark] had used all the spatial and
visual formulas to make you realise that the way fashion changed over
time was so multi-faceted. It shook you out of the normal way of looking
at the history which is that things are pre-determined. She freed us up
a lot more to think in terms of a theatrical mise-en-scene.'
(Valerie Steele, interview with Donatella Barbieri at the Fashion
Institute of Technology, New York, December 2, 2011. p.29 quoted on p.55
of The Handbook of Fashion Studies, 2013.)
De la Haye's object-led approach as a curator and writer has led her to
examine the biographies of garments. Treating objects as testaments and
holders of memory, she explores their shifting meanings and use values
once they enter the museum. Lucile Ltd: London, Paris, New York and
Chicago 1890s -1930s (2009) with Valerie Mendes, was the
first major monograph on this influential British couturière and examined
previously un-accessed work from the V&A archives. The exhibition and
authored catalogue The Land Girls: Cinderellas of the Soil
(2009/10) scrutinised land girl uniform. In the exhibition, de la Haye
exploited this material evidence to propose new strategies and original
forms of curation and interpretation of dress in historical and museum
In 2004 O'Neill curated Wolf Suschitzky: Charing Cross Road in the
1930s (an outcome of Fashion and Modernity). The exhibition
reconsidered the Viennese émigré photographer Wolf Suschitzky's images of
London street life, and analysed them through the perspective of fashion
as a social agent of metropolitan change. The exhibition Fashion Lives
(2005), devised and curated by O'Neill for the British Library, was the
first of its kind to be organised around sound as opposed to material
objects, challenging the pre-conception of what a fashion exhibition could
contain. Relating to the Suschitzky research, O'Neill's book London:
After a Fashion (2007) argued that fashion was central to the impact
of modernity in late nineteenth and twentieth century London. It
demonstrated that fashion is not only a pleasurable aspect of modern urban
life but a fundamental element of contemporary cultural sensibilities. The
book reconsidered the role of fashion in city life and filled overlooked
gaps in the social history of London and modern design.
Uhlirová explores, via the Fashion in Film project (founded
2005), the intersections between film and clothing, analysing how fashion
is mediated through the moving image. She argues that existing film
theories alone cannot explain the representation of fashion in film, which
requires the addition of formal film analysis informed by fashion studies.
The curated programmes (Fashion in Film Festivals) and publications
highlight the importance of studying film costume in movement. They have
explored costume in relation to the styling of crime and violence;
spectacle and colour; and posed questions about politics and society in
relation to fashion newsreels during war-time and fashion and film in
totalitarian regimes. Her research draws new parallels between previously
unlinked periods in, and approaches to, cinema; early film (1894-1910);
silent Hollywood and European cinema; American underground and
experimental cinema, and their relationships to other modern cultures of
movement such as dance, theatre, performance and the digital image.
References to the research
Key outputs indicative of the overall body of research and related awards
are listed below:
1. Clark, J. (2004) Malign Muses: When Fashion Turns Back. 18
September 2004-30 January 2005. Mode Museum, Antwerp. 24 February-8 May
2005. V&A (as Spectres:
When Fashion Turns Back) [Exhibition] UAL on request.
2. De la Haye, A. & Mendes, V. (2009) Lucile Ltd: London, Paris,
New York and Chicago 1890s-1930s. London: V&A Publications.
[Authored book] Listed in REF2.
3. De la Haye, A. (2009) The Land Girls: Cinderellas of the Soil.
3 October 2009-14 March 2010. Brighton Museum and Art Gallery.
[Exhibition] Listed in REF2.
4. Evans, C. (2003) Fashion at the Edge: Spectacle, Modernity and
Deathliness. London: Yale University Press, USA: UK and New Haven
[Authored book]. UAL on request.
5. O'Neill, A. (2005) Fashion Lives-A New Exhibition at the
British Library. 11 November 2005-7 February 2006. British Library,
London [Exhibition]. UAL on request.
6. Uhlirová, M. (2008) If Looks Could Kill: The 2nd Fashion
in Film Festival. Tate Modern, Ciné Lumière, BFI Southbank, ICA, and
The Horse Hospital (London). Museum of Moving Image, New York (2012)
[Exhibition]. Listed in REF2.
UAL, PI: Evans, C. Fashion and Modernity (stage 2),
(07/2001-12/2004) £301,478. AHRB.
Details of the impact
During the impact period, UAL researchers have curated and/or designed
numerous exhibitions that exploit their innovative approach to curatorial
practice and exhibition making. The articulation of theoretical concepts
in fashion exhibitions has played a part in the successful extension of
the audience for fashion history and theory. In an area where the
commercial interests of the fashion industry have to be recognised,
academic fashion research is prized for its neutrality, helping public
engagement to become more meaningful. Indicators of the significance and
reach of impact are demonstrated by the range and quality of the venues at
which work is shown, visitor feedback, high-profile partnerships and
commissions, attendance figures, and extensive media coverage. Examples
SHOWstudio: fashion revolution (2009), Somerset House.
Co-curated by Alistair O'Neill (with Claire Catterall and Professor
Penny Martin) utilised innovative forms of communicating with the
audience such as interactive co-design and new media interventions.
Attracted nearly 25,000 visitors.
The Land Girls:
Cinderellas of the Soil, (2009), Brighton Museum
& Art Gallery. Curated by de la Haye. The Director of the Royal
Pavilion and Head of Museums credited the `innovative and imaginative
approach that the exhibition took' resulting `in a show of
appeal and interest to a wide range of visitors'. Ninety per cent
of visitors rating it highly and 70 per cent felt inspired by the
exhibition. More than 1100 school children participated in the related
education programme and over 2600 people attended adult and family
special events. Attracted over 45,000 visitors.
The Concise Dictionary of Dress (2010) curated by Clark in
collaboration with Adam Phillips, commissioned by Artangel `the
doyens of site-specific work' (The Observer), with the V&A.
The first time Artangel had worked with a curator as opposed to an arts
practitioner. The installation was described as a `spellbinding
adventure' (Frieze) and as lighting up `unexpected places with
allure' (The Observer).
Chloé. Attitudes: 60th Anniversary
(2012) curated by Clark, was the inaugural exhibition in the Fashion
Program exhibition cycle at Palais de Tokyo. Commissioned by
Chloé to coincide with their 60th anniversary and opening during Paris
Fashion Week. The exhibition had extensive international press including
reviews in: The New York Times, International Herald Tribune
(Suzy Menkes); Wallpaper, as well as Vogue online (It,
Simone Handbag Museum (2012) curated and designed by Clark, in
Gangnam, Seoul, South Korea. The museum was widely reviewed in Korea and
abroad including by the Financial Times and the New York Times. The
accompanying publication Handbags: The Making of a Museum (Yale)
included the writings of Clark, Evans and de la Haye.
Valentino: Master of Couture (2012) Somerset House, co-curated
by O'Neill with Patrick Kinmonth and Antonio Monfreda. Major
retrospective of Valentino with media coverage including Time Out,
Vogue, The Guardian, Harper's Bazaar, and The Independent. Attracted
over 104,928 paying visitors. Exhibition featured on BBC and ITV News
including interviews with O'Neill. O'Neill's work with Somerset House
has resulted in his curation of Isabella Blow: Fashion Galore!
- The Fashion in Film festivals (three since 2008) have been
hosted by major cultural institutions including Tate Modern, BFI
Southbank, Barbican, Institute of Contemporary Arts, Institut Français
and Museum of the Moving Image/Tribeca Grand (New York). Since 2008, Fashion
in Film has received financial and in-kind support from
organisations including: Film London, Arts Council England, British
Council, Barbican, British Film Institute, V&A, Arts and Business
and Museum of Moving Image. National and international press coverage is
extensive including: Women's Wear Daily, The New York Times, The
Independent, The New Yorker, Village Voice, International Herald
Tribune, El Pais, Sight and Sound, AnOther Magazine, BBC Radio and NBC:
New York. The festival has been described as `curating a selection
of films that are rare and just as rich in terms of inspiration' (Dazed
and Confused 2010); `supremely dazzling and unique' (Steve
Leggett, Program Coordinator National Film Preservation Board, Library
of Congress 2008); having `a brilliant inclusivity [...] the
treatment is rightly academic but the subject matter is fascinating to
all with an interest in clothing and cinema' (GQ 2008); and
bringing `forgotten wonders to the screens of London' (Amelia
Magazine 2010). Evans co- curated the fourth Fashion in Film
festival in 2013 with Uhlirová.
Research disseminated by publications has reached an audience outside of
academia. Fashion at the Edge has never been out of print since it
was first published in 2003 and is now in its fourth printing. A review
for Evans's recent Yale publication The Mechanical Smile: Modernism
and the First Fashion Shows in France and America, 1900-1929
(2013), describes Evans as `a rare academic in that she can actually
write in a way that the rest of us, who are not academics, can
understand and appreciate' and Fashion at the Edge as `an
instant classic of modern criticism, commentary and elucidation'
(Business of Fashion, 2013). De la Haye's writing for V&A publications
include Lucile Ltd: London, Paris, New York and Chicago 1890s-1930s
(2009); Chanel: Couture and Industry (2011) the A
to Z of Style (2011); and Clara
Button and the Magical Hat Day (2011) illustrated by Emily
Sutton. Lucile Ltd was described by The New York Times as `a
book for true fashion geeks'. De la Haye and co-author Valerie
Mendes were interviewed on Radio 4's Women's Hour in relation to the
publication, reaching an estimated audience of 3.8 million. Clara
Button and the Magical Hat Day (2011) was the first ever children's
fiction book published by the V&A. Based on the V&A collections
and drawing on de la Haye's research on the narrative of objects as
holders of memory it has been described as a `beautifully illustrated,
imaginative story' (Jacqueline Wilson). In seven weeks the print run
sold out and was reprinted and a paperback version and French and Italian
versions have been published. A second book in the series Clara Button
and the Wedding Day Surprise was commissioned by the V&A
(published October 2013). A Clara Button App produced by the V&A and
narrated by de la Haye launched in July 2012, and featured in The 50
best children's apps for smartphones and tablets (The Guardian) and
20 best iPhone and iPad apps for kids (Apps Playground).
The representation and communication of fashion by the industry has
changed in recent years. Rather than simply being about the garment
itself, it now encompasses fashion as image mediated through the media,
exhibitions, fashion films, blogging, online publishing and magazines.
Here UAL researchers have demonstrated that fashion history and theory
have relevance. Evans, O'Neill and de la Haye participated in live panel
discussion during London Fashion Week 2012 and Paris Fashion Week 2013 for
the influential SHOWstudio.com. O'Neill was consultant on British
Style Genius, five hour-long programmes on BBC 2 (2008) with YouTube
clips from the series being viewed over 200,000 times. Evans was the
second individual to be covered in the My Career series in Elle
(2012), and was interviewed by Donatien Grau in AnOther Magazine
(2012) in a series that asks prominent thinkers and practitioners about
fashion and its connections to contemporary creativity. For Chloé.
Attitudes a series of digital films were created for Chloé.com
to which Clark contributed the brief and featured in three of them. Other
examples of impact reaching into the fashion industry include emerging
designer Phoebe English interviewing Evans for ideas on how to stage her
2013 London Fashion Week show, and commissioned extensions of Chloé.
Attitudes being designed by Clark for Selfridges Concept
store/window; Isetan, Tokyo; and Barneys, NYC.
Sources to corroborate the impact
Impact in relation to curatorial practice:
- Statement from Director of Somerset House Trust. UAL on request.
- Statement from Head of Cinema, Barbican. UAL on request.
- Information on the Concise Dictionary of Dress available at http://www.artangel.org.uk/projects/2010/the_concise_dictionary_of_dress
- Letter of appreciation from the Director of the Royal Pavilion and
Head of Museums to Professor de la Haye in relation to Land Girls. UAL
- Media coverage in relation to Simone Handbag Museum at
http://www.ft.com/cms/s/2/53b14594-c9b5-11e1-a5e2-00144feabdc0.html#axzz2lI7kjVwO Impact in relation to publishing and extension of audience:
- Review of Mechanical Smile in the Business of Fashion, comments on
Evan's writing generally. http://www.businessoffashion.com/2013/08/colins-column-tomes-of-the-times-2.html
- Statement from Head of V&A Publishing. UAL on request. Impact
in relation to industry:
- Live panel discussions SHOWstudio.com can be found at
- 2012 interview with Evans in Elle Magazine. UAL on request.